New
Zealand was 150 years later than Australia in discovering
that its cool maritime climate was ideal for making
high quality wines with a more European profile. The
country has been on a rollercoaster ride in the past
decades trying figure out its microclimates, twisting
its way through bouts of phylloxera, turning through
excessive vine vigour that produced mean-green wine
styles (thanks greatly to the help of wise Viticulturists
such Richard Smart who created new techniques in the
vineyard) and finally arriving in a place that knows
what should be planted where and how to work with
it. Sauvignon from Marlborough has made New Zealand
one varietal wonder, unless you also know cool Otago,
land of great Pinot Noir, or the southern end of the
Northern island, Martinborough, the home to a smaller
wine community of growers who made their fortunes
in other businesses first and are generally seeking
the “good life” of a vigneron. The tendency
in Martinborough is make wine in a “whatever-it-takes”
fashion. We certainly see that attention in the wines
of The Martinborough Winery; richly styled Sauvignon
that does not run with the pack of pea-pod smelling
aggressive brutes, and Pinot Noir that escapes the
cranberry- herbal tones and reminiscent of a more
Burgundian flavour.
|